Lisa Lucas, daughter of a well known jingle writer,
child actress &
graduate of the Cordon Bleu in Paris had a dream—to
open a restaurant in the theater district that was elegant, user-friendly
& affordable. (It’s also in an industrial space in the building where
she lived as a child.)
Dorsay (named after the fabled Paris train-station-now-museum)
has been opened only 7 weeks & has already achieved most of Ms. Lucas’
goals.
The two-level space is a visual knockout with mauve
walls, a grand zinc
bar, striking mural of Gare Dorsay & train station
motif. The lighting is flattering & there is wonderful vintage French
music on a low-decibel soundtrack. The service is laid-back & there
is a celebrity clientele (Ben Gazzara & his wife were there on our
visit). The prices especially, entrees & desserts, are affordable &
there is a well chosen wine list with lots of choices under $25 (we liked
the dependable Undurraga Cab with its soft tannins, a best buy at $25).
The indefatigable & attractive Ms. Lucas is determined
to make the kitchen live up to the ambiance. Two entrees (both $16.95)
were lovely: Grilled salmon filet provencal (medium rare as requested)
& a huge pork chop à L’Alsacienne with hot apple compote. "How
about the first courses—I really want to know," Ms. Lucas inquired sans-defense.
"We’ll, the Spanish torta (actually a classic tortilla or potato-omelet
with chorizo) was ice cold," I replied. "It should be room-temp." "You’re
right," she agreed. "They keep
it too close to the fridge. It’s going off the menu
next week." No problem with the very good fresh-tuna salad Nicoise &
all sauces, which were light & delicious.
The martinis were wonderful (a bow to Lucas’ association
with the NY
restaurant of that name) & "Lisa’s Tirami Su"
(all desserts are $5.95) was perfect at Dorsay, 320 W 46th Street
off 8th Ave. That’s a budding A Minus on my Restaurant Report Card.
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J.
Walman's Restaurant Report